is London now the world capital of chocolate?

from the telegraph newspaper, april 3, 2009 - written by casilda grigg Of the meagre offerings in Gordon and Sarah Brown's official gifts to world leaders during the G20 summit last week, only one gift stood out. Not the necktie. Not the Kelly Hoppen scented candle. And certainly not the Irish linen tea towel. It was the box of Rococo chocolates. For years this pioneering London chocolatier has been leading the way, proving that our chocolates can rival the best in the world. "People used to look down their noses at our food," says Chantal Coady, the company's founder. "But these days London has probably got more top-class chocolatiers than any other city. At last the message is getting through that we understand about quality. And what makes us different is that we add a kind of irreverence and sparkle." Her view is echoed by Nick Crean of Prestat, who co-runs this bijou British brand with his half brother Bill Keeling. "When people come to Britain, they're really taken aback by what we're producing," he says. "There's a wonderful feeling of wanting to experiment and try new flavours." Fife-born William Curley is just one example of the new breed of independent chocolatier. Fifteen years ago, as a trainee chef bursting with dreams and ambition, he used to take the night bus from Victoria to Paris, and wander around the city, gazing at the exquisite truffles in the windows of Fauchon, Jean-Paul Hévin and Christian Constant. Today Curley, who has worked with Pierre Koffman and Raymond Blanc, presides over a thriving chocolate shop in Richmond, south-west London. A second store (in Pimlico) is due to open this summer. "Good chocolate always has length," says Curley, who makes his sea salt caramels and truffles in a room above the shop. "If there's an immediate burst and then it dies on you, it isn't made with the best beans." Selfridges food and restaurants director Ewan Venters believes these are exciting times for chocoholics with patriotic inclinations. "There's been a real explosion in high-quality British chocolate," he says. "We may be in the midst of a global economic crisis, but our sales are up 80 per cent on last year." Bill McCarrick of Sir Hans Sloane, another handmade UK label, is similarly upbeat. "Business is booming,"' says McCarrick, whose creations are a favourite with King Juan Carlos of Spain. "It's exciting to be part of the upsurge. People may pass on buying a rug or new curtains, but they still want a bit of luxury." ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Where there's a Will there's a way : Quite why so many of the movers and shakers in the world of chocolate should share the same christian name is anyone's guess, but here is just a sprinkling of Willies, Williams and Bills. Willy Wonka -- Roald Dahl's character may be entirely fictional but he remains nonetheless the most famous chocolatier in Britain – if not the world. Willie Harcourt-Cooze -- The Devon-based chocolate maker and television star produces his own chocolate from bean to bar. He sells his 100 per cent cacao to Selfridges and launched a 72 per cent bar two days ago which has a waiting list of 1600. William Kendall-- Former CEO of trendy organic chocolate label Green & Black's, which he sold to Cadbury's in 2005 for an estimated £20 million. William Curley -- Scottish pâtissier and chocolatier who, despite growing up on a diet of "mince, tatties and good honest stodge", makes some of the best chocolates around (don't miss his Piemonte hazelnut chocolates; £8.50 for 100g). Bill Keeling -- Co-owner of Prestat, the tiny Piccadilly chocolatier, which boasts a royal warrant. "My first memory of chocolate," he says, "was melting a Curly-Wurly over my mother's fur coat." Bill McCarrick -- The Philadelphia-born chocolatier at Sir Hans Sloane, the new but deceptively old-school brand that is official supplier to the Spanish royal family. Sensational dark chocolate truffles (£14 for nine). William Gladstone -- Possibly the greatest chocolate hero of all. In the mid-19th century, the British prime minister reduced the taxes on cacao beans, making chocolate affordable for a large portion of the population.